I found this part of the wallet construction most interesting. I’ve installed a great many zippers, but none this way. You will need to purchase the kit from Connecting Threads #6383 for $7.45 (not including shipping) to make the wallet.
Mark 5″ along the center of the zipper.
Pull the zipper head to the middle of the marked 5″. Lay an F under the zipper and marked line with F’s right side facing up. Sew along the marked line on the zipper. Repeat at the other end.
Lay another F on top of the zipper with the F’s right sides together. Be sure to align all sides and flip the unit over so you can see the sewn line. Sew along the previously sewn line. Repeat at the other end. Trim ends 1/8″ from the stitch line.
Pull all Fs away from the center and carefully press.
Carefully trim all Fs to the edges of the zipper.
Fold and press Gs in half with right sides together. It should measure 4″ x 6-1/2″ when folded. Slip the zipper unit into the crease, making sure it is centered. The Fs will hang off the ends.
Make sure you have pulled the zipper head to the middle before stitching.
I like to use a zipper foot on my machine for this job. I found it helpful to place a few pins in my unit to make sure the zipper unit remains flush with the crease while sewing.
Sew a ¼” seam part way down the unit. Lock the seam and remove from the machine.
Open the unit and pull the zipper closed.
Return it to the machine and complete the ¼” seam.
Pull G away from the zipper unit and press the seam carefully on both sides. You are half way done with this unit!
Slip the first unit into the crease of the second G aligning the sides of both Gs. Repeat the process used in the first G.
Again, pull G away from the zipper and carefully press the seam on both sides.
Trim F at both ends even with G.
Mark a ¼” from the edge of G where attached at the zipper. Topstitch along these lines.
Press the bottom edge of all Gs to the wrong side ½”. Stitch the bottom edge of all Gs together using a ¼” seam.
Now you have the wallet unit done and the zipper unit. There is yet a little more to do with the zipper unit, and that comes in the next lesson.